Our last time in Switzerland was 09 September 2001. I will not, however, recount the details of that experience, other than to say that the Swiss were truly empathetic and supportive of us during those trying times.
This is a small and curious little country with four distinct regions, each speaking a different first language. French, German, Italian and Romansch, an odd “mouthful of marbles” sing-song dialect unique to the eastern mountians.
However, the country as a whole has a number of unifying qualities. It is all unbelievably beautiful. The people are always friendly and welcoming. But, for all this beauty and hospitality, the Swiss have a well honed ability to empty your pockets. No matter how much money you arrive with, they have an uncanny ability to part you from it down to the last centime, always with that friendly and welcoming smile. Indeed!
Lausanne, home of the International Olympics Committee, is no exception. Located in the French speaking area , it is situated on the edge of uber-beautiful Lake Geneva. It is as people friendly and livable mid-sized city as you’re likely to find anywhere. It is tres Swiss! We stay in the photogenic old town, high above it all, only the great cathedral above us, originally Catholic, then to become the home church of John Calvin and his view of the Protestant Reformation. Our hotel, the Regina, offered us a lovely night time view of this cathedral, lit against the night sky.
Thankfully, there was a modern subway/funnicular to wisk us effortlessly up from the lakeside, the train station, to the old town. Perfect !
Our first night in town, a lovely meal at an old landmark, the Romand. A turn of the century (20th) brasserie in the Parisian sense. It offered all of the predictable favorites, and.... the local lake perch, filleted, sauteed in butter and sauced with a silky menuiere, Served with little steamed potatoes buttered and sprinkled with parsley, it was a sublime combination. Washed down with a carafe of local Villette from neighboring Grandvaux, delightful! Even my Sandy with her newfound taste for fish, a big thumbs up!
The tab, ouch!! About US$100. See what I mean!
Now, I come to these parts for two things. Notably the vineyards and the fine walking. Here they come as a four star package deal.
Hop the lakeside train in Lausanne up to Vevey and catch the little vineyard train up to little Chexbres. Climbing through the vineyards as we rose high above Lake Geneva. Picturesque doesn’t begin to do it justice. Jaw droppingly beautiful just about does! It’s warm. It’s sunny. We feel great. The jet-lag, now a forgotten memory.
It’s about a 10-12 mile walk, starting in the too-cute little village of Chexbres, where even the public WC was adorned with a festoon of blooms surrounding a babbling fountian. Up, down, across and most of all through the vineyards. That’s it and all about it!! You felt almost “eaten alive by all those vines”. They begin at the lakeshore and rise , terraced, up the slopes for as far as you can see. A “patchwork quilted” sea of vines. I’m in Kevin heaven. Can’t seem to make much time on this walk, takin’ too many pictures, the perfect shot presenting itself at every turn. Oh well, could have worse problems.
About half way along and we find ourselves in the petite village of Grandvaux. Time for lunch. Uh-oh, look’s like one of those “museum villages”, you know, high on beauty, low on people and services. I had bet on lunch here and so far... just wineries. Ok, down to the end of what seems the last rue in this little village, and, voila!! A restaurant. Whew!!
Patio seating, overlooking the vineyard shrouded hills and the brooding “smoke covered” (e.g. Deep Purple) Lake geneva far below. Outa sight!!
Une table pour deux sil-vous-plait. The young pretty Asian waitress seats us beneath a magical sycamore tree. Menu’s presented, I open mine.... huh? What the hell? I look over my shoulder at the restaurant front across the street... Restaurant Chinois.
How? How in this tiny village in the middle of nowhere in French speaking Switzerland, is this a Chinese Restaurant? Oh well, the menu is cool. A sorta light and fresh approach to Chinese cuisine. Me a saute of shrimp with fresh ginger and scallions. Sandy, a saute of chicken with fresh pineapple and mixed peppers, served in the hollowed out pineapple. A local Villette from this village of Grandveaux completed the meal. Yuuum!! Light, easy on the tummy and with a view to die for, and... all for the low low price of, you guessed it, US$100. Once again, ouch!!
Now about half way through the meal, in saunter two Asian fellows who have obviously been walking the same trail as us. I look over at Sandy and remark, think we were surprised, imagine them. Why, they could even order their meal in Chinese. Just imagine the odds of that.
You know me, as we were about to leave, I just had to step over to their table and ask if they spoke English. Yeah, sure they reply in faultless English. I then ask them if they were a little surprised to happen across , of all things, a Chinese Restaurant on this walk in this little town in the middle of wine country. No... not at all was the reply. Uh-oh. That was a bit short. I think I may have offended them, you know, Chinese, Chinese Restaurant. Perhaps that was a bit too stereotypical of me. Are you Swiss? No, we are Chinese. Yes, yes, I know you speak Chinese, but have you been here before. No, we live in central Switzerland.
And.... not being able to leave it alone.... You’re not at all surprised by this? A Chinese restaurant, all the way up here, the only restaurant in this little village? No, of course not. We’re Chinese and we’re taking over the world, don’t you know? Well there now. That sure put me in my place, didn’t it. Oh well, enjoy your walk, Avoir.
Another couple of hours or so, trekking through the vines, more gorgeous views, the vineyards, the lake far below, and we finally ease into little Lutry, Lutry Station to be exact. Catch our train, the S-3 and back to Lausanne in a matter of minutes.
Not quite the end to a perfect day, the evening awaits, but it will be tough to top this day.
It is about time to move on, I’m nearly outta Swiss Francs and as you’ve seen, Switzerland don’t work too well without them.
Guess I’ll just keep movin' on towards the blue.
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