The Weekly Provencal Market

                 

                                                Part 3 of a 3 Part Series                                        

Sometime around seven, maybe a little before, they arrive. Depending on the time of the year, it could still be dark. They arrive in all manner of vehicles, each prepared in their own way to open their little “storefront” in today's market.

Some arrive in elaborate mini motor-home like affairs, specially built, the sides open up to expose the wares, often spilling out onto tables placed in front. Others may have a towed trailer, from short and compact to long and skinny. They’re often rather complicated fold-out affairs, ingeniously designed for the purpose with pop-up awnings and umbrellas. Some will arrive in vans, large and small, and set-up a dizzying array of tables, rod and curtain walls, awnings and umbrellas. Some even arrive with their wares in the back of their cars, set-up a little table, an umbrella and spread out their wares.

It’s really quite amazing... the diversity, the ingenuity, the complexity, and the amount of plain old hard work involved in setting-up ones stall. And yet... sometime around 8, maybe 8:30 most of the stalls are ready and the crowds begin to trickle in. (The locals know this as the time to go to the market)

I often imagined that this was a highly corregraphed affair, you know, with a grand plan and someone from the town there to carefully administer it. Nope! Don’t think so. The whole thing really has a bit of a laissez faire approach. Yes, the spaces are numbered and marked. And yes, they’re assigned to the vendors who pay the town for the rental and for any electricity. And yes, the local police block-off or close-down certain streets and redirect the traffic flow, all of which is or rather should be known to those who live or work here. So... I guess in a sense there is something of a grand plan, just sorta ad hoc, if you know what I mean.
This incredible assemblage of over 200 vendors just happens. And... it happens with a minimum of confusion. Everybody gets to their spaces, somehow, sets-up, puts their vehicle away somewhere if necessary, puts-out an enormous amount of merchandise and all in about an hour to an hour and a half. It is one of those things that seems to work in spite of itself , controlled chaos if you will.
And for the next 4 hours or so, the market takes over the town. Like a great serpent “snaking” it’s way along the harbor and into the distance for maybe a quarter of a mile, swallowing the stalls of the daily market in it’s path.
And people, lotsa people. Thousands in fact. Cars and people come pouring into this little village from all directions. Yes, this is a big deal. As I said, for about 4 hours, this market assumes control of the village. The “serpent”, an undulating mass of people milling through the “gauntlet” of stalls.
And, about those stalls. There’s just an unimaginable variety of “stuff” out here for sale. Let me try and describe some of what I can remember:

Foods and produce:

There are many, seemingly too many, produce stalls, large and small, each often with a specialty or touting their freshness, localness or service in an effort to woo the buyers. Some are small local producers, many more are what I deem retailers, buying their produce for resale. In addition to those arriving here weekly, there is the entire daily market crowd as well.
There were some examples of great specialization such as a stall selling only fresh garlic, local figs, honey (2), local apples (2), olives (4-5), olive oil (1), spices (2), local muscat table grapes(1), local vineyards selling their wines (2), vanilla beans (1)
Cheeses- couldn’t say just how many people were selling cheeses, some were local producers, great goat cheeses, some were retailers, musta been at least a dozen.
Several butchers- probably 8 including the daily market crowd. Lotsa specialization here, fresh meats, cured meats, sausages only, Corsican style sausages, even a Bucherie Chevaline (horse meat) quite popular if you judge by his long que.
Baked goods- had to see at least 8-10 stalls selling baked goods. Local rustic style breads, some with cookies or pastries, some regional and a couple selling candies and nuts.
Prepared foods- Two, not one but two stalls selling paella, and not one big 3 foot diameter pan, but three types! One was the traditional seafood and rice, one pulpo (octopus) and one with baby squid. Two vendors were selling rotisserie chickens and roasted meats. I even saw a Chinese take-away truck.

The next biggest category of merchandise would probably be clothing:

Ladie's outerwear- dresses, blouses, swim wear etc, couldn’t say how many, lost count.
Ladie's lingerie- at least 3-4 of these. Saw one lady getting fitting recommendations from the man in the stall.
Men's outerwear- shirts, tee shirts, sports jerseys, pants & shorts, swim wear. I again lost track of how many.
Shoes- I think 2 maybe 3
Hats-1-2
Ladie's scarves 1
Hair piece extensions- yes there was one of these.
Fingernail polish and make-up (2-3)
Ladies jewelry and watches, I saw at least 3-4
Children’s wear- at least 2-3
Sunglasses or reading glasses- at least 3-4

Other “Stuff”:
Leather goods- bags, belts and handbags
Woven market bags (1)
Pet supplies- included beds and outfits (1)
Original painters and prints (4-6)
Pottery- (3) local and mass produced
Mattresses- yes, mattresses, two of them
Knives, pots & pans, kitchen supplies (3)
Toys (2)
Pruning shears (1) sold nothing else.
Home decor- tablecloths, linens (2-3)
Fabric and sewing supplies- (2-3)
Artisanal soaps (2)
Flowers (3)
And, what I call people demonstrating kitchen widgets and people demo-ing cookware, choppers, Remember it slices, it dices, etc., well it was here along with demos of cleaning products and micro fiber cloths.
Oh, and I almost forgot, a stall selling vinyl windows.

And, bring cash, most don’t take plastic.
As I’m sure you can now imagine, it’s all really a bit overwhelming. There’s just so much stuff!
In addition, there were a couple of wandering minstrels in medieval garb playing music for tips.
And... people and more people. It can get a little dizzying. Sometimes you just have to pop-out to an alley or side street to catch your breath. The locals know, come early. And to avoid the crowds and get around the congestion, use these alleys and back streets. I’m learning.
And.... around lunch time, the crowds begin to thin, and the cafes and restaurants begin to fill. You begin to notice the sellers, packing away their wares, disassembling their stalls, the morning in reverse.

About one, maybe two o’clock, they’re largely gone. The people, the cars also largely gone. The streets, the traffic returns to normal. The town’s sanitation crews have moved into clear the detritus of the market. By 3 maybe 4, normal life has returned to the village. No sign that this big unruly “serpent” was ever here.

 

The promenade

                                                

The promenade with the weekly Provencal Market 

                            

                                         
 

Ladies dresses



Paella, will that be regular, octopus or baby squid?



A rainbow of shoes

It slices, it dices, I'll even bet it makes juliene frites

I've seen this guy laying on one of these before

Get your horse meat here



These guys were great, added a certain ambiance to the market 



A honey stall

This ladies pottery was just beautiful

These are the best grapes I've ever eaten!

Let's make pomme au four, baked apples

Hey,  a French woman can't have too many scarves

And you just gotta have a market bag, now don't ya?












                                

Introducing The Provencal Market & A "Peculiar Obsession" with A Tower

                                               Part 2 of a 3 Part Series

                                       Introducing The Provencal Market


I have vicariously known of Provencal Markets long before experiencing the real thing first hand, having read numerous accounts in various travel guides, journals and photo essays about them. The uniqueness of these markets cannot be overstated. In my life I’ve never experienced anything quite like them in the “states” .
Part farmers market, flea market, “Fuller Brush man”, 19th century peddlers wagon, the butter ‘n egg man, the milk man, Gypsy peddlers, Jewish “rag-man”, all wrapped in the atmosphere of an old-fashioned county fair. Really.... this description doesn’t begin to do it justice.
It is an act of living history. Just as they have done for generations, dozens, in some cases, hundreds of nomadic merchants and artisans set-up their stalls in their assigned spaces in the market squares and streets of the towns and villages all over Southern France. On the designated day, every week, every month, every year, they appear at dawn, set-up their stalls, sell their wares, and, a little after lunch tear down their stalls and pack them into an incredible diversity of vehicles, only to move on to the next town and repeat the whole process the following day.
To be repeated over and over and.....
It’s incredible! I mean here it’s 2012 and this is all still going on. With malls, hyper marts, grocery stores, department stores, all accessible to most people with a minimum of effort, and still it continues.
Why, I can just about imagine in my mind the wagons, the carts, the sellers and buyers all in peasant costume.
Remarkable!!!
I have since experienced many such markets all over the South of France. Each one, similar of course, but unique in it’s own way. From the beautiful little ochre red hilltop village of Roussilon and it’s modest weekly market to Cote d Rhone town of Viason la Romaine and it’s huge granddaddy of all Provencal Markets.
Every time it’s exciting, my pulse actually quickens a bit upon arrival. A bit deja vu, perhaps, the memories... a young child... late summer... a visit to the county fair. It’s there!
But.......




                                             A “Peculiar Obsession” With a Tower


Central to the telling of this story is a tower, or rather La Tour (the tower). It is a ancient defensive stone structure of Roman origins, enhanced throughout the Middle Ages, that lords over the harbor to this very day. Second only to the Church tower as the most recognizable feature on the harbor landscape, it was in the late 19th century, incorporated into the body of the Hotel-restaurant La Tour, an excellent family-owned establishment, which was our home for a brief time during our first visit here back in 2006.
The tower is open to visitors daily, with interesting historical displays on each level which you ascend via a trying, if not a little claustrophobic assortment of spiral staircases and ships’ ladders. Once you craw (literally) through the final narrow “tunnel” via a steep ships’ ladder, you emerge at the top with what is unarguably 360 degrees of the finest view in the village.
Now here’s where it get’s interesting (or not, depending on your point of view). I have for years been intrigued with the thought of doing a photo-essay on the weekly Provencal Market. My efforts, however, have been repeatedly thwarted by the very qualities which make it so unique. Because of the compact nature of the location, the “snaking” nature of the layout, the congestion of the stalls and the throngs of shoppers milling among them, it is virtually impossible to photograph the market. That is to give a sense of it’s entirety, it’s character. You simply can’t see the forest for the trees!
But... the tower, or rather, La Tour. Now there’d be a wonderful opportunity to view the market, the whole affair, from above.
Brilliant!!
Except... open daily to visitors, except Wednesday (market day). It is not open until after 1:00 pm, by which time the whole thing’s packed-up and gone.
Damn!!
Surely there are exceptions. For the past several years I have checked on every market day, nope! I have even checked with the Hotel La Tour, nope! I have occasionally seen a maintenance person on site during the market, nope! (I even considered bribing one, but never got that far)
Always..... thwarted!!
Café time. For Sandy and I it is a cherished part of the “French Experience” here in this little village. Just a few days ago, during one such “cherished moment”, we found ourselves in our favorite café, ridiculously tiny tables and chairs, crowded cheek-to-jowl with the neighboring tiny table and chairs, (it is the tradition) a carafe of rose, warm sun, blue skies and that “Impressionist Masterpiece” harbor view spread out before us. It was, the quintessential “French moment”.
Now on this particular afternoon, we were blessed with the charming company of a friend of ours, a lovely French woman whom we had met a couple of years back. She is, as the French would say “tres sympa” (very nice). She has lived in this village for nearly 30 years, and, has lived in the “states” for a portion of her life as well. Fortunate for us, because her English is impeccable and her understanding of our culture is, well, remarkable. We feel quite honored to be welcomed into her company. She is for us, in addition to being truly “tres sympa”, a wonderful bridge between our culture and that which is here. She’s wonderfully adept at “translating” that “similar but different” that I have written about previously.
Today she has overheard my protestations concerning La Tour, it’s closure during the weekly market, and my almost obsessive desire to go atop it during the market so that I might be able to photograph it. She was surprised to learn that it was closed, believing that she had in fact observed people atop La Tour on market days. Huumm?
Probably thinking me a little weird, she seemed to quitely mull the thought.
Sandy and I continued to enjoy our “French Moment” with a second carafe of rose. I noticed our friend conversing with a gentleman at the table behind her, in French of course. Nothing peculiar about this, our friend seems to know nearly everybody here in the village and they her. Through my poor French I can just get the gist, the conversation involves us, or rather me and my “peculiar obsession” to go to the top of La Tour on market day. Telephone call made by her friend, in French of course, and a few minutes later.....
Next Wednesday, be at the gated entrance to the tower. A man will meet you there. He’ll let you in.
Voila!! It was done! Her friend had been an official at the Marie (city hall). She had pulled some strings
and..... what a dear!
And so.... that next Wednesday, 10 o’clock, you better believe I was there, Sandy too. The man was there, and yes, he too knew of my “peculiar obsession”. Our friend was there to meet us. I was smiling from ear-to-ear. She could tell that Kevin was happy.
How do you thank someone for a gesture such as this? Well.... Sandy did a bit of fishing... and... seems our friend was quite fond of macaroons ( little egg white cookies filled with various luscious cremes) and... we happened to know from our landlords of an excellent macaronier from Paris who had settled in the adjacent town. So... the previous day, hop on the velos (bicycles) and off to “Macaron Foliles” www.macaronfolies.fr . Little white box, macaroons inside, wrapped with a bow in true French style... thank you so much. Graciously accepted and I’m willing to bet well enjoyed.
Now... the previous Wednesday, market day, had been beautiful with blue skies, and the one before and... the one before. But, today... it was just not to be. Generally overcast, a hint of sunshine occasionally popping through, rain threatening to arrive at any moment.
Hey, beggars can’t be choosers. Gotta make the best of this and realize my “peculiar obsession”. So...
I ascend the trying if not a little claustrophobic assortment of spiral staircases and ships’ ladders, and...
Voila! I’m on top. Wow! 360 degrees of view, a bit grey perhaps, but wow. There it is. The market below, winding serpent-like through the streets for as far as I can see.
Awesome!!!
Admire, line up several well (hopefully) composed shots and leave the rest to Photoshop. Got it!!

Now... about that Provencal Market...

A view of La Tour (the tower)

Realizing my "peculiar obsession" 

One of two on the way up

This is a tight fit! Almost to the top.

Yeeesss! I knew this would work!

                                                  Special thanks to mdme. G



                                Next Part 3 of 3 The Weekly Provencal Market

The Daily Market

                                                      

                                                                The Daily Market


                                                              Part 1 of a 3 Part Series



It will come as no surprise to those who have followed my postings, I am as the Brits would say, quite potty about markets, that is, I’m absolutely crazy about them.
I see one, I get excited. I walk through one, my pulse quickens. I’m just like a kid in a candy store, I want to buy some of everything that I see.
So there. I’ve said it.

Now in this little village that we sometimes call home there is a rare and wonderful thing, a daily market. Yes, every day! For a small seaside village of say, 17 thousand people, this is unheard of. As a matter of fact, outside of some of the major towns and cities I’ve visited, I’ve yet to encounter another small village with a daily market. Weekly, of course, and I’ll be talking more about those in parts 2 & 3 of this 3 part series, but not daily.
So, just how and why did a daily market come to be here? Short answer. People around here use it. Vendor’s won’t return day after day, every month for years if they aren’t selling produce.
The slightly longer answer might go something like this. The leadership of this village has been very farsighted when it comes to those things that make this little village so livable, so people friendly. The location of the daily market, for instance, is on a lovely paved promenade just off the harbor, and lies beneath the shade of overhanging rows of Plane trees. When the market departs, the city cleans-up after it and much of this area “blooms” with café tables and chairs from the cafes across the street. It creates a wonderful, serene and inviting setting.
Also, this same stretch of promenade serves as the eastern leg of the weekly market.
The street beside this promenade becomes one-way on daily market mornings in order to make the area more pedestrian friendly. On the opposite side of the promenade area is a wonderful green space, an urban park complete with a long rectangular fountain extending almost the entire length with thoughtful seating located alongside. To the other side of this green space lies a landscaped municipal
parking lot accessed directly from the D11 main route up to the train station making it relatively easy to get to the parking. So... you park, walk through the lovely little park and, voila! You’re in the market!
Or... you walk or bicycle from the village or neighboring villages to the market, requisite market bag in hand. So you see, they’ve made it easy for the village folk as well as the neighboring villages to come to the market, every day. And... I’m willing to bet that these stall holders are somehow subsidized. It would only make sense, a modest subsidy in return for a daily market. I’m sure it greatly benefits the towns residents and tourism as well.

Now, about that market. Who, what, when, where & and how?
Well, aside from the weekly market on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday are probably the busiest with the most vendors showing up. I would say, on a typical Friday for instance, you’ll likely have two or three small local producers, who will truly have what’s local, freshest and in season. Then you’ll have probably have 6-8 retail stalls, those who purchase their produce for resale. There will be as many as three poissoniere (fish mongers) with their “catch” spread out on long counters of crushed ice. There’s often a lady who sells regional cookies and baked goods. Two butcher stalls, one selling some cheeses as well. Then there’s a stall selling cheeses only. Two stalls sell olives, olive oils and other olive products. One of these olive stalls also sells a good assortment of bulk spices, dried fruits and nuts.
There’s a fellow at the end who sells nothing but sausages and cured meats. A couple in one stall selling Italian Specialties, prosciutto, cured meats, fresh pasta and the like.. Oh, and let’s not forget the roti-chicken man.
Whew! That’s a lot to go through.
And... the composition does change throughout the week with Mondays being the lightest market day with maybe as few as eight stalls to Friday and Saturday and Sundays with as many as 15-20 stalls

With all of this bounty available, just how do I go at it?
First, it’s better to arrive early, 9 or so, the produce is freshest, your choices are better and the crowds only thicken as the morning passes. The sellers, who like to develop a familiarity with their customers and vice versa, are better able to do this when the ques aren’t 15-20 deep. Also, if it’s late June - August, it can get quite hot and that’s no fun for the produce or for me.
Second, I always go with a suggested menu for the day, or couple of days if I’m otherwise busy and won’t be able to come the following day. You often hear celebrity chefs wax poetically about wandering markets and letting what’s available and fresh inspire their menu of the day. Yeah right! Could happen that way but not likely. First... what’s available just doesn’t change that quickly. You largely expect to find what’s there for that time of season. Without a menu and shopping list, I run the risk of, like that child in the candy store, buying whatever I see that looks pretty and not have the ingredients for that evenings meal.
Now, don’t get me wrong. Serendipity is a wonderful thing. I said suggested menu. If I get to the market and something strikes my fancy, well yes of course I’ll alter my menu plans to include it. Why not?

Ok, let’s you and I do the market my way.
Suggested menu in my pocket, glasses too, need to see, and my market bag (gotta have one) in hand. I always take a preliminary stroll through the whole market just to see who’s got what, who’s looks freshest today and maybe who’s got the best prices for what I know I’m going to buy.
I know many of these sellers by face, even name, and they me. I love this familiarity. However, I still will buy my produce based on availability, freshness and to some extent price. Not necessarily all from the same vendor nor the same vendor each time. They all know and understand this. It’s the way that the market works.
Alright... I’m going to have a salad for lunch, I need a salade (lettuce) (Ollioules) (.98e/pc.). This stall’s looks the freshest, leaves are still crisp, stem on bottom, not at all brown. Grab one of the little poly bags from awning support (notice these are blue, next door’s yellow, another white) and try and stuff the thing in it. Ok... I think I saw, yep, carrottes (provence) (1.10e/pc.) I like the greens on top, and they’re unwashed, great. Oh, and there’s the radis (radishes) (provence) (.80/pc) long and tubular, bright red with the green tops on (you can put these greens in the salad). Bag these two up, and, need some tomate (tomatoes). I prefer the cour-du-beouf variety, they’re really good at the moment, but these are a little small, don’t like the color, more yellow than red. I’ll look elsewhere . Let’s see, what else? Oh yeah, some ratts (fingerling potatoes) (provence) (1.80e/kg) over here in a wicker basket. Look at that, they’ve sprinkled peat moss on them. The French are not only location obsessed, they are fresh obsessed as well. Dirt on the potatoes means fresh to them, so, washed potatoes get dusted with peat moss, crazy. Ok, about a half a kilo (app. 1 lb). I’ll boil these and just toss them with butter, salt and pepper. Perfect with the little lamb chops (Sisteron) (18e/kg) we just picked up from my butcher in the village.
Ok, got all my little bags on one arm, shopping basket on the other, que up to pay, well try to at least. The ques can sometimes be a bit free form. There. Bonjour monsieur, ca va? (How are you?), ca va bien, et vous? (Good and you?). hand him my little bags to be weighed and counted, little bags go into a bigger white bag (knows I’ve paid). 5.40e monsieur, root around in my pocket for change, there 6e, him: merci monsieur (thank you sir) me: avoir merci (bye thanks).
There, now... I still need the tomatoes... saw some great ones two stalls down and she’s really sweet. Wow! Cour-du-beouf (Carpentras) (1.80e/kg) they look great! Especially under these red awnings. The red tint accentuates the appearance of the produce. Several of the stalls have these red awnings. I pick them up, give a sniff and try not to get caught gently squeezing to check the ripeness, this will get me scolded. Let see, two of these beauties, grab one of the yellow bags, and... oh I nearly forgot, I need a little tray of fraises (strawberries) for breakfast tomorrow. Nice fraises, from Carpentras and at 2.80e, not too pricey. That’s it! Find the que, sorta, and... bonjour madame, ca va? Oui, ca va. I am caroline du nord (North Carolina) to her, she remembers not my name but where I’m from, and, always makes sure everybody in the que knows. Bags up my bounty, 4.50e, more rooting in pocket. Oh hell, just give her a 5e. .50 returned and, merci, avoir merci.
Ok... let’s see... Sandy wants some olives and I want some black olive tapenade. Let’s go over to the stall and... whoa! Big line, 6-8 people, I’ll try back. Also need some cheese for the salad. Bonjour monsieur, I’d like some Gruyere please, about 250 grams, no not Swiss, domestic, it’s from the Savoie region of France, beside Switzerland, close enough, and at 19.50e/kg it’s nearly 7e cheaper than the Swiss. Oui, that looks right. Cest-tu? (Is that all?) Oui monsieur. 6.50e, root in pocket, 2, 4, 6 + .50, there, that’s it. Merci, avoir merci.
Right... now back to the olives, oh good only a couple of people in line. Bonjour madame, ca va? Heyloo, hoow rrr yooou? I’m good, merci. I’d like some picholine olives, the ones with fennel, 100 grams please. Cest-tu? No madame... 100grams of tapenade noir sil-vous-plait. Cest-tu? Oui madame. 8.50e, no rooting, heres 20e, change returns. Merci, avoir merci. Au dumain (see you tomorrow).
Ok... shopping bag’s a bit full by now, stop by the boulanger (baker) for a baguette (.95e) on the way back to the apartment, and, time for a cocktail midi (a pre lunch cocktail) and some of that lovely tapenade with the still warm baguette.
Oh yummm!

And that’s it. That’s how it works here. Repeat daily.
Bear in mind, most of these transactions occurred largely in French, I tried to  spare you that.
They know me, I know them. We see one another day after day. I find it is just a wonderful aspect of life here. I can’t imagine it any other way, and it is a huge part of the reason why I am here.

Ok... so no everything doesn't come from the markets. We have two small groceries in the old town, two medium sized ones on the edge (one of those, a Casino about a quarter mile from the apartment being my choice) and two large grocery stores near the train station (about two miles from the apartment).
In addition, three or four of the fishing boats have stalls by the harbor with really fresh catch of the day several days a week. There are at least six traditional butcher shops in the village and I don’t know for sure, but at least ten boulangers (bread bakers) with several doing pastries as well. And, there are 3-4 traiteurs (what we might call a deli) with prepared take-away foods.
There’s an almost embarrassingly rich bounty of food here. Almost.

Check out the red tint

The roti-chicken man



I'm caroline du nord to her



Poisson anyone?

A lovely stall

          

                            Next: Part 2 of 3 An Introduction To The Weekly Provencal Market