Why Nice?

Nice, self appointed queen of the Riviera, a belle epoch beauty, part late 19th century Brit and part 20th century resort.
But Why? Why does it draw Sandy and I back time and time again? What's so special about Nice? After all, when we first arrived in Nice back in '98 as a part of one of those whirlwind tours of France we were known to do back then, we both looked at each other and said it's ok but what's the big deal?
Then came a second visit, a second chance for Nice as it were, and we hit upon "old town", yes old town. Vieux Nice with it's warren of narrow sometimes dark streets and alleyways almost at times a little threatening, pulsing with life. Sandy describes the experience as almost dizzying. I have to agree. A mixture of the flavors of France, Italy and the Near East, all co-mingled into one intoxicating brew of an old town.
We had not even been inside the old town our first time. Can you imagine! Nice as a whole is a perfectly likable large Riviera resort city, but old town- oh yeaaah!
If you don't go anywhere else in the old town, find the Cours Saleya and it's Marche aux Fleurs (flower market). Open daily, the flower market is a riotous feast for the eyes. All the best flowers from the French/Italian production hidden up in the hills of this glorious coast all the way down into Italy.
Early every day the vendors descend upon The "Cours" and erect their booths. Their myriad of flowers is absolutely unbelivable. And yes, the Niceoise, as they have done for decades, buy these flowers. And let me tell you, it's a lotta flowers! I can only imagine that the interiors of Nice's homes must be the best dressed of any in France and the women here are surely spoiled by daily gifts of flowers.
In the afternoon we like nothing more than to stake out a little cafe table across from the likes of Bridgett and Eric's booth, near the end towards the Opera House. We don't really know them but we like to imagine that we do. As always, we order a carafe of rose, sit back and watch the magic begin. Sometime around 3 or 4 all of the vendors begin to dismantle their stalls (a great time to bargain) in a well rehearsed scene. They even have special carts and racks just for this purpose and just as it has for decades, an enormous amount of "stuff" moves out to places unseen and the Nice sanitation crews move in on their heels with brooms, mini trucks and "fire hoses" to sweep the detrius of the market away. And at the same time almost magically, the cafes lining both sides of the "Cours" bring out their little cafe tables and chairs "stacked oreo style" from some unseen place in the back of their small little cafes and transform the "Cours" into a delightful cafe piazza.
The whole thing takes little more than an hour. It is amazing!!
For me it's one of those rythms of life I often speak of and I can't think of a better way to wile away a lazy Nice afternoon.
The "Cours" is also shared with a daily (except Mondays) produce market at the end opposite the flower market. I am never happier than when I am amongst the stalls of a Provencal produce market- pure bliss and this is a good one! On Mondays a classic French brocante (antiques) market occupies the space normally for the produce market.
While this is not my thing, it is none the less fascinating and I'm told is one of the best in France.
When in Nice, our address is the Mercure Hotel Marche aux Fleurs, fronting the quai les Etats-Unis directly across from the Promenade des Anglais and beach and with the Cours Saleya behind. It is modern, an awesome location, pleasant and offers a fine value. It can't be beat!
We have been in many an old town, and for us Vieux Nice is tops. First it's bigger than you might think- easy to get lost in, it's winding knot of narrow streets and alleyways (some are just stairways)- but small enough to regain your bearings and continue your wanderings. And that's what you do here, wander, just wander.
Yes, it's touristy and it can be crowded, but just dive right in and you'll find some gems, whatever your interest. Skip the tacky tourist shops. Maybe try the olive oil shop which offers tastings of at least a dozen local offerings, pop into the numerous caves (wine shops) perhaps you'll get lucky and land a bottle of the local AOC Bellet, France's smallest appelation, about 50 acres within the urban confines of Nice. Nose into the local craftsmen, including Sandy's favorite jeweler, or the surprising number of fresh pasta shops. The most amazing butcher shop I've ever seen is here, a gallery to meat with an overhead zipline on which your neatly packaged order is fired to the nearby cashier. The place is simply gorgeous. And artist, artist everywhere. Just walk the alleyways and check them out for yourself. Window licking (window shopping) as the French call it is great sport here.
In addition to a most walkable old town, Nice is a transportation dream come true for the traveler. I've never encountered it's equal. An ultra-easy to use International Airport just minutes by bus or cab from old town, a big regional train station, hub for the entire Riviera, and a central bus station with lot's of cheap and frequent connections to all of the local hilltowns and sights. A new tramway glides down Nice's central Jean Medecin, thru Place Massena, past the old town and on to almost the port.
A vast improvement over schlepping your baggage from the train station, down to Massena and into old town. Hop on!!
This all serves to make Nice the most perfect, user friendly base from which to explore the length of the Riviera, it's hill towns and all the way down into Italy.
Nice is just made for day trips. Some of my favorites, at least once to Monaco-ville. Go straight up to haute ville where the palace is- the view from there is unbelivable. Jaw dropping hilltowns abound all along the high corniche- but none perhaps as spectacular as little Eze. Touristy? Oh yeah! But oh my God what a view.
Finally, about a 15-20 minute bus ride east of Nice is tawny Cape Ferrat with my all time favorite walk in these parts. French law makes all coastline public- here a paved pathway follows the circumference of this uber-exclusive cape. You get the million dollar views for free. I hop off the bus at little Plage Passable and I end this walk at the charming little beachside cafe on petite Plage Paloma- perfection!!
Nice is where I first tasted my Riviera- the beachs here, justifiably famous, are not to be missed. Pebbley and crowded I prefer to be in the thick of it right in front of old town. I want to savour the full experience here- chairs, parasols, beach side cafes, carafes of rose by my side, delicious seaside lunches and beautiful water, lotsa sun and acres and acres of bare tan flesh- the monokini's rule here. For me it's as good as it gets. Just dive in and enjoy the whole thing!
If the beaches aint enough, might I suggest a favorite of mine. Nice's high park, the old chateau (castle/fort). Just walk in the direction of the port from anywhere in old town and you will encounter any number of stairways leading up to the old chateau, actually now just a flat-top hill, the castle being long gone. and offering the perfect picnic spot and the finest views in all of Nice. The old town spreads out before you, its orange tiled roofs glistening, punctuated occasionaly by the tiled domes of the churches. The port is on the opposite side and lovely, but perhaps the best view (how do you decide) is past the old town and down the length of the Bay of Angles, as far as the eye can see. Tres belle/bellissimo
Not unexpectably, when I think of Nice, I think of food. Not gourmet or spectacular for me, just really good food. A melange of Italian, French and Arabic. Wander the streets, smell the smells and look for crowds of Niceoise. The variety of food here is overwhelming. I'm partial to some of the ethnic spots- Turkish kebaps, Indo-Pak curries, even an excellent Afgan cafe with wonderful Biryanis. Lunchtime can be especially fun, an excuse to visit the many street food vendor stalls that dot old town. Look for socca, that unique Niceoise crepe-like creation made of heavily peppered chickpea flour (I'm partial to Theresa's), doubtless of Arabic origin. And the pissaladiere, the native pizza with only carmelized onions, niceoise olives, and anchovies. But classic Niceoise food for me means La Merenda (4 Rue de la Terrasse), a tiny oh so typical French bistro just off the "Cours". Maybe 20 foot wide, shared rows of tables tightly spaced down both sides, kitchen visible at the end. This is as good as it gets for me. Chef Dominique Le Stanc is behind the counter, formerly of the ultra chic Chantecler in the luxurious Hotel Negresco and formerly holder of two Michilin stars before he gave them up for a simpler life. Limited authentic Niceoise menu on a blackboard- more limited wine menu, a white, red or rose (if you're lucky the local Bellet). No phone but reservations are required so you must go by early in the day and make them in person. Quirky, loveable and oh-so-good food, a required Niceoise experience for me.
As for the evenings, I'm really not a night time drinker, I prefer an afternoon carafe of rose in a quaint little outdoor cafe savoring the moment and watching the passersbye. My evenings entertainment is likly my resturant of choice. I'm there for the evening, the experience to be savored in the style of the French. That being said, I must remark upon old town's bounty of night time watering holes, especially the ubiquitous English, Irish and even Scottish Pubs. I counted 8 on my walk one day. Unbelivable. That's a lot of beer and a lot of English. If this is your thing, just start on rue de Palais de Justice and you won't be disappointed. Cheers!
I do, however, absolutely adore gelato and Nice has for me one of the top 3 temples to gelato in Europe. Fenocchio's (not to be confused with nearby Pinnochio's) on Place Rosetti. 80+ flavors and always artisnal (made in house). Another Nice must and a people watching paradise. Hint: try the lavender glace- you'll be pleasantly surprised.
Now I'm not a big museum hound but I've gotta say Nice delivers what I want. I'm a huge fan of the French Impressionost of the late 19th century and early 20th and none more than Henri Matisse. He lived and painted here for years while living in the big yellow building at the end of the "Cours". I love the Musee Matisse (Matisse museum)- oodles of his paintings many accompanied by the actual props appearing in the paintings. In the hills above Nice you'll find the town of Vence. Matisse spent the last years of his life here and blessed them with his Chapel of the Rosary. It's a spectacular homage to a single man's creativity. After seeing the Chapel don't miss the final room in the Musee Matisse. All of his sketches, models, etc. for the Chapel are there. How cool is that?
Also near Vence in the village of St Paul de Vence is the Foundation Maeght- my favorite Museum of Modern Art anywhere. A dealer/collector, Maaeght acquired these works as the artist were making a name for themselves. Don't miss the outside gardens with all of the Miro and Giacometti sculptures. This museum is just awesome!
Finally, I find Nice's Museum of Modern Art to be one of the most appealing big modern art museums of anywhere.
The works are approachable, not quite as far-out as some modern art museums. Just my speed. I especially love the exhibit of the rejection letter sent to Andy Warhol in the early 60's in response to his offer to place multiple pieces there gratis.
They hold only a few of his works today. Duh??
And now about a quirky little pleasure of mine. I must admit to being more than a casual fan of the movie "Ronin", some of which was shot on location in the nearby countryside around Le Turbie, but largely in Vieux Nice. Sandy and I love to watch the movie when we're here then scout out the locations on our own. It's great fun, a sort of scavenger hunt if you will. I recomend it highly. Hint: spend lotsa time sitting in a little sidewalk cafe on Place Rossetti with a carafe of rose and you'll begin to recognize many of the scenes. A walk along the port and you'll spot more.
Now, anyone who knows me knows that I'm not really a big city person. Paris, I do love because I view it's inner arrondissments as an assemblage of villages, and maybe just perhaps I am in love with the myth and romance of Paris, who knows.
But Nice, yes, I know it's big, 5th largest in France, but you see, for me it's all about the old town, Vieux Nice, My Nice. Not so big but oh so beautiful and smack in the middle of the "blue".
Yes,I know I will answer her irrestible siren call again and again.
A bientot
Cousin

Dedicated to Dave & Julie, Bon Voyage!

Baguette

You may be asking yourself, why in the heck is Kevin writing a post on bread.
Well, you see, when you practice what I call "immersion travel" you begin to pick-up on so many of the little details of daily life that create the "fabric" of that local life.
In France, and perhaps nowhere more than here in the South, a baguette is just such a detail. For someone from the States who has not experienced French life firsthand, it is difficult to imagine that something as simple as bread could play such an important role in their daily life.
What an understatement!
For us bread is an accessory to the meal. But to a Frenchman, it is integral. Every meal from breakfast thru dinner will have a basket of sliced fresh baguette at the center of the table. From the simplist cafe to the finest resturant and in every French home, no meal is complete without that obligatory basket of baguette.
The French chef Jaques Pepin once noted that if he could have only one food for the rest of his life he would choose fresh bread with butter.
Wow!
Now, about that bread. What we call French bread in the States, soft and spongy, would be unrecognizable to a Frenchman. In fact no bread made outside of an authentic French boulangerie will do. These "temples to bread" exist in all towns large or small. Our village of around 17K has at least seven that I know of. Amazing! Even the tiniest of villages will have at least one boulangerie.
And as for baguettes, the only acceptable bread, there are no simple choices.
There are the common baguettes (round ends with slashes on top). Banetts (pointy ends also with slashes on top, and usually a bit more brown on top). Baguettes "ancien style" dark and crusty on the outside with loose flour to get all over your lips and clothes.
Yes there are so many styles of baguette that even I, a confirmed baguette lover, am not thouroughly fimilar with them all, but my quest continues.
And, then there is the matter of the dough, much debate on this issue. Is it made fresh daily or does it arrive frozen from a factory to be finished locally? Everybody has their favorite style, shape and boulangerie and if asked they will pontificate for hours on the virtues of one over another. Really!
Some of my fondest memories in France have got to be sitting in a cafe and observing the "rituals of the baguette". Since you are never far from a boulangerie or a cafe, this is easy.
It happens at least three times a day. You begin to see people, all kinds of people with baguettes. Many will be carring one as intended by it's midsection where it is wrapped with a little paper sleeve at the boulangerie. Others will have them poking out of shopping bags, bicycle bags, backpacks and baby strollers. Suddenly, everywhere you look you see people with baguettes! I've seen them folded and put into a man's attache case, taped to the horizontal bar of a bike, carried while riding the bike and drooping at the middle, or, even once sticking out of the top of a traditional rolling shopping cart shared by a little lap dog who seemed more interested in the passersbye than in the baguette. It is also not uncommon to see someone with a floursack full of baguettes sticking out, walking down the sidewalk. Resturant staff I'll assume. (You know, it's worthy of note that here, everyone tries to do business with one another).
Yep! At a certian hour, if you look around, nearly everyone that you see will have one or more baguettes being carried in some fashion or another. Beginning early in the morning, the boulanger opens at around 7AM, just prior to lunch 12ish and around 5-6 PM. Yes- thats right- three times a day!
Just for fun Sandy and I like to see just how many of the baguettes have the end nibbled off- more do than don't.
Now it took us no time at all to fall right into this daily routine. We have our favorite- round ended "ancien style" baguette , well browned and crispy from our favorite boulanger, "Daniel Surirey". We often find ourselves in a que 8-10 deep to secure these beauties- "une baguette sil-vous plaits". .90e and a what a bargain!
About now, your'e probably rolling your eyes and thinking, whatever, but remember, a revolution was fought partly over the shortage of this bread. So, what's the big deal? Quite simply, it's the best bread you'll ever eat in your life.
Somewhere about here, Sandy suggest that maybe I describe the sensual experience of eating this awesome bread. Well here goes, let's try:
The thick dark golden brown crust -a slight nutty smell to the nose- crackles into small pieces scattering all over the table top and onto your lap as you break off a piece. A sharp crisp edge breaking off as you take a bite and digging slightly into your mouth. You salivate uncontrolably as the rich, pretzel like taste permeates your mouth. Then follow with a bite of the soft -not too soft- white, chewey center, it too possessing a rich wheat flavor. It's just pure bread!
Best enjoyed warm right from the boulanger (I could eat a whole one by myself before I get it home, but I won't). Slightly steaming under your nose as you bite, crackle into that crust and into that soft chewey bread center.
Oh yuuum!
So good with EVOO, although I must admit no one over here routinely does this, it seems to be an American thing, but best I think with lightly salted warm (don't give me cold) butter.
OOOh yeah!! Jaques was right!
It's also worthy of note here that the boulangers all seem to staff their counters with typically very pretty and very friendly young women. I had mentioned my observations to Sandy a while back who just cast a slightly raised eye in the direction of my by now my somewhat suspicious looking self, but, she too had noticed this "boulangers tradition".
I also have noticed no shortage of men queing up , buying and carrying these baguettes. Perhaps there's a conspiracy by the boulangers to entice the men into their shops and at the same time releve the wives of this "burdensome" chore. It appears to work. I for one can report that it is no chore at all to go to the boulanger twice daily when the staff is this easy on the eyes. Or? Perhaps it's really just for that heavenly just-baked aroma of the bread. You be the judge.
In any case, I now find that I too am unable to take a meal without this fimiliar basket (ok, bowl in my case, I really need to get a basket) of sliced fresh baguette .
As I continue my "slip into the blue" the baguette too has become yet another part of my "fabric of life".
A bientot,
Cousin