Slip Into Azur Blue: The Weekly Provencal Market

Part 3 of a 3 Part Series

Sometime around seven, maybe a little before, they arrive. Depending on the time of the year, it could still be dark. They arrive in all manner of vehicles, each prepared in their own way to open their little “storefront” in today's market.

Some arrive in elaborate mini motor-home like affairs, specially built, the sides open up to expose the wares, often spilling out onto tables placed in front. Others may have a towed trailer, from short and compact to long and skinny. They’re often rather complicated fold-out affairs, ingeniously designed for the purpose with pop-up awnings and umbrellas. Some will arrive in vans, large and small, and set-up a dizzying array of tables, rod and curtain walls, awnings and umbrellas. Some even arrive with their wares in the back of their cars, set-up a little table, an umbrella and spread out their wares.

It’s really quite amazing... the diversity, the ingenuity, the complexity, and the amount of plain old hard work involved in setting-up ones stall. And yet... sometime around 8, maybe 8:30 most of the stalls are ready and the crowds begin to trickle in. (The locals know this as the time to go to the market)

I often imagined that this was a highly corregraphed affair, you know, with a grand plan and someone from the town there to carefully administer it. Nope! Don’t think so. The whole thing really has a bit of a laissez faire approach. Yes, the spaces are numbered and marked. And yes, they’re assigned to the vendors who pay the town for the rental and for any electricity. And yes, the local police block-off or close-down certain streets and redirect the traffic flow, all of which is or rather should be known to those who live or work here. So... I guess in a sense there is something of a grand plan, just sorta ad hoc, if you know what I mean.
This incredible assemblage of over 200 vendors just happens. And... it happens with a minimum of confusion. Everybody gets to their spaces, somehow, sets-up, puts their vehicle away somewhere if necessary, puts-out an enormous amount of merchandise and all in about an hour to an hour and a half. It is one of those things that seems to work in spite of itself , controlled chaos if you will.
And for the next 4 hours or so, the market takes over the town. Like a great serpent “snaking” it’s way along the harbor and into the distance for maybe a quarter of a mile, swallowing the stalls of the daily market in it’s path.
And people, lotsa people. Thousands in fact. Cars and people come pouring into this little village from all directions. Yes, this is a big deal. As I said, for about 4 hours, this market assumes control of the village. The “serpent”, an undulating mass of people milling through the “gauntlet” of stalls.
And, about those stalls. There’s just an unimaginable variety of “stuff” out here for sale. Let me try and describe some of what I can remember:

Foods and produce:

There are many, seemingly too many, produce stalls, large and small, each often with a specialty or touting their freshness, localness or service in an effort to woo the buyers. Some are small local producers, many more are what I deem retailers, buying their produce for resale. In addition to those arriving here weekly, there is the entire daily market crowd as well.
There were some examples of great specialization such as a stall selling only fresh garlic, local figs, honey (2), local apples (2), olives (4-5), olive oil (1), spices (2), local muscat table grapes(1), local vineyards selling their wines (2), vanilla beans (1)
Cheeses- couldn’t say just how many people were selling cheeses, some were local producers, great goat cheeses, some were retailers, musta been at least a dozen.
Several butchers- probably 8 including the daily market crowd. Lotsa specialization here, fresh meats, cured meats, sausages only, Corsican style sausages, even a Bucherie Chevaline (horse meat) quite popular if you judge by his long que.
Baked goods- had to see at least 8-10 stalls selling baked goods. Local rustic style breads, some with cookies or pastries, some regional and a couple selling candies and nuts.
Prepared foods- Two, not one but two stalls selling paella, and not one big 3 foot diameter pan, but three types! One was the traditional seafood and rice, one pulpo (octopus) and one with baby squid. Two vendors were selling rotisserie chickens and roasted meats. I even saw a Chinese take-away truck.

The next biggest category of merchandise would probably be clothing:

Ladie's outerwear- dresses, blouses, swim wear etc, couldn’t say how many, lost count.
Ladie's lingerie- at least 3-4 of these. Saw one lady getting fitting recommendations from the man in the stall.
Men's outerwear- shirts, tee shirts, sports jerseys, pants & shorts, swim wear. I again lost track of how many.
Shoes- I think 2 maybe 3
Hats-1-2
Ladie's scarves 1
Hair piece extensions- yes there was one of these.
Fingernail polish and make-up (2-3)
Ladies jewelry and watches, I saw at least 3-4
Children’s wear- at least 2-3
Sunglasses or reading glasses- at least 3-4

Other “Stuff”:
Leather goods- bags, belts and handbags
Woven market bags (1)
Pet supplies- included beds and outfits (1)
Original painters and prints (4-6)
Pottery- (3) local and mass produced
Mattresses- yes, mattresses, two of them
Knives, pots & pans, kitchen supplies (3)
Toys (2)
Pruning shears (1) sold nothing else.
Home decor- tablecloths, linens (2-3)
Fabric and sewing supplies- (2-3)
Artisanal soaps (2)
Flowers (3)
And, what I call people demonstrating kitchen widgets and people demo-ing cookware, choppers, Remember it slices, it dices, etc., well it was here along with demos of cleaning products and micro fiber cloths.
Oh, and I almost forgot, a stall selling vinyl windows.

And, bring cash, most don’t take plastic.
As I’m sure you can now imagine, it’s all really a bit overwhelming. There’s just so much stuff!
In addition, there were a couple of wandering minstrels in medieval garb playing music for tips.
And... people and more people. It can get a little dizzying. Sometimes you just have to pop-out to an alley or side street to catch your breath. The locals know, come early. And to avoid the crowds and get around the congestion, use these alleys and back streets. I’m learning.
And.... around lunch time, the crowds begin to thin, and the cafes and restaurants begin to fill. You begin to notice the sellers, packing away their wares, disassembling their stalls, the morning in reverse.

About one, maybe two o’clock, they’re largely gone. The people, the cars also largely gone. The streets, the traffic returns to normal. The town’s sanitation crews have moved into clear the detritus of the market. By 3 maybe 4, normal life has returned to the village. No sign that this big unruly “serpent” was ever here.