A Magic Place

A Magic Place
The lovliest little village on the Cote d' Azur and occasionally it's mine.

Saturday, May 22, 2010

Beinvenutti





Who cares about lost luggage when you have food and a view like this!!
Toscana, 5 days and counting, so, ok, ok, I know this is not the Cote d' Azure, but stay with me here, we'll segue into that life very soon.
Little Lucca, an absolute charmer. Wanted to go here for 10 years or more- now, not disappointed. An elegant but petite Florence or Siena but with style all it's own and the real treasure, it's wall!!!! 2.5 miles in circumferance, grassy, walkable/bikable. A real joy and the view from the wall was the best! 360 degrees of Lucca! Also, I can't remember another town I've been in with more pedestrianized areas, piazzas and with more bicycles, everyone was riding! Belissimo!
Just off the plane and I'm thinking dinner means a little backstreet mom&pop pasta place. And so it was. Simple, delicious and so satisfying. Sadly I must sample Lucca's culinary charms better at somepoint.

Siena, we return to time and time again.
And, to the Hosteria Il Carroccio, Via Casato di Sotto 32 (no site ,tel#0577 41165), an old favorite of many a visit and absolutely in my top five resturants anywhere!! And , it didn't disappoint.
Me tomato bread soup to start followed by what must be the most outrageous lambchops ever. Perfectly grilled little jewels, a touch of orange zest & EVO. The fat and carmelization stuck right to your toungue, and oh, with a yummy side of cippiolino onions carmelized in vin santo. Contorni, white beans in tomato broth with sage and slathered in local EVO. Sandy, a starter of red chicory, pinenuts and cheese in pastry, amazing she says followed by grilled pork rillettes over a bed of arugula dressed with EVO "local" and shaved pecorino.
Heapings of praise to the kitchen brought out the gratutious grappa from our host, flavored it was with their blend of herbs and berries. Only time I've ever really appreciated grappa, yumm, hic-up! Finally, their home-made biscotti dunked in "local" vin santo wine. It was perfection!
Also in Siena, on a backstreet backstreet, we found the Osteria Il Campaccio (www.osteriailcampaccio.it) on the street of the same name. Down a few steps and into a most inviting little patio (too chilly this evening, too bad) we dined in what has to be the most charming petite little room I can remember. only 8 tables under brick caterniary arched ceilings, this place was awesome. Me, pecorino and pine nut raviolis sauteed in EVO with a scallion/courgette blossom sauce, followed by Pollo Sienese, a pan roasted quarter with rosemary, egg, lemon and oiled cured galleta olives washed down with a delicious 1/4 carafe of "local" Castilano white. Sandy started with pasta "packets" with pecorino and pear also delicious she says followed by a carmelized beefsteak with balsamic reduction and carmelized cippiolino onions. No complaints!! 1/4 carafe of "local" Castilano rosso, what could be better.
Sandy's pick, this one, and might I add a most perfect evening.
Also worthy of note, both of these establishments were female owned and staffed. Hats off.
Oh, and I almost forgot, the Albergo Bernini (www.albergobernini.com), been trying to get in here for 10 years, finally, and the view, bellisimo!!! Two windown looking at the Duomo and old town with breakfast served on a cozy terrace with views alternating between the Duomo and Santa caterina and the Tuscan Hills. finally! And well worth the 65e.

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