53024 Montalcino

Toscano for me is first and foremost it's hilltowns. I don't think you can really "get it" untill you have stayed in at least a handfull of these little gems.
First fact, they are always on a hilltop, safer up there cause someone was always trying to conquer you. Also, the streets are narrow and steep. Don't even try to think of driving into one. They are incredibaly photogenic, careful, or you won't be able to stop shooting. Finally, theres not a lot to do except chill, enjoy the ambience, the people, the local products, lodgings and resturants.
That being said, Montalcino is the quinticential living hilltown. Culinary treat, Brunello di Montalcino, Pecorino cheese, jaw dropping views of the Val di Orcia spread out in all directions. This is real Toscana. For me this is it. My first and foremost Italian love. Seemingly analogous to , say Roussillon and the Luberon of Provence, similar, yet each with it's very distinct personality. I was concerned upon my return after so many years I would find it corrupted. But I was pleasantly surprised to embrace a familar old friend.
So many choices, but favorites win out. For Sandy, this place means Pecorino cheese pizza and Ristorante-Pizzeria San Georgio. Unchanged, simple, un-preposing, an Italian family kind of place. Her, the Pecorino pizza of course- spectacular.
Me, a big basketof local porcini and truffles-- I could not resist. Start with zupa di fungi- nothing but the essence of fungi, so rich. Next a homemade tagliatale with thick shavings of tartufo (truffle) washed with 1/2 litre of rosso Montalcino, I was cooing like a baby over the mushrooms. desert, why yes of course when it was homemade torte prune, a shortbread-like crust with an intensely flavored plum preserves filling--oooh, waddle out the door!
Of all the walks we've ever made, certianly the top 5 would include Pienza to Montichello, a moderate 18K walk through the rolling countryside of the Val di Orcia.
First, however, on the drive over we were shocked to be flagged down in the middle of the road by a little old Italian grandma of at least 80. She had missed her bus but quickly conscripted us to ferry her to her home in Pienza, chattering in Italian the whole way, don't have a clue what she was saying, but she was so cute.
We both have been off our game in recent years but it was back for this glorious trek.
Oh, did I forget, the walk began at La Porta, shoehorned into the guardhouse of the main port of the Montichello city wall. Montichello is tiny, cute, but what we call a "museum town". Hard to imagine living there, but, back to La Porta.
Me, a simple but bright insalate mista with a twist. Petite mozza and fruit-like pomodorro, white beans and assorted veg on fresh greens. Sandy, a bit more exciting, little spinach "packet" gnocci- a potato ricota filling sauteed in EVO with a generour dusting of shaved pecorino. Ooh yum!! But the star may have been the quaff- 2004 Vino Di Nobile Di Montepulciano , jam in a glass!
Oh God, must walk- 13 miles and not so much guilt for all the feasting.
Night 2 and counting-yep! Back to theSt. George, imagine that, always associate him with the English- oh well.
Me, start with a massive char grilled portabello- it was beefsteak melting in the mouth. Secondi, local congilio (rabbit) in cacciatore (hunter sauce). it fell off of the bone- and yes, I know that was more fungi.
Sandy had a pecorino (notice a trend here too?) gratinee carmelized in a wood fired pizza oven then drizzled with local miele (honey) My God, it was breathless! My Sandy, version 2.0 and now always a surprise opted for wild boar stew over paperdelle pasta. Smells a tad funky but taste absolutely wonderful, especially with a generous helping of, yep, pecorino. Wash down with a bottle of Sasso Nero, an IGT Toscano Rosso blend of Sangiovese and Merlot, shades of a left bank Bordeaux and utterly delicious.
Day 3- baggage fiasco continues, pick-up a few clothes and such in Siena, not our choice of a day, but travel is what you make of it. Back on the hill we both need a chill out at the Bar Belvedere, a common watering hole with a wall of glass at it's rear, the jaw-dropping view of which I spoke. At first glance, a working man's bar, but surprise with a winelist most resturants would kill for-beer, rosso, Brunello by the glass to a 190e bottle of 1994 fatoria Barbi. Nibbles? How 'bout wild boar proscuitto, porchetta (roasted pork with rosemary, garlic salt and EVO)oh my God, crostini di lardo (yep! lard) oooohh---laaaard! Crackly pizzetta crust with olio and garlic-- didn't expect all that, did ya?
Oh, and the best Compari and tonic with bloodorange slice. I wax poetic upon a simple bar, but, you see, it's a square in the living fabric that is this place.
our home in montalcino means Via Moglio 9-- Affitacamere Nada. She doesn't speak a lick of English, but what a sweet B&B and at 50e, you just cant belive it.
Sunday and we leave tomorrow. Luggage fiasco is dragging us both down a little. Airline can tell us where it isn't, but not where it is primarily because Roma refuses to answer their queries. Frustrated we bomb down to Roma to find our baggage. Long story short, we find them in storage where the've been for days but we are eccstatic. Bomb back up to Montalcino and time to celebrate!!
Bar Belvedere and a bottle of Proscecco, grilled pecorino with honey. God I feel great!! Dinner, blow it out. Ristorante Re Di Macchia (recommended by our now friends at the Bar Belvedere) Bisteca Fiorintio, (t-bone) half a cow at 2 kilo (shared) char-grilled with EVO, rosemary, garlic and salt and a primo bottle of 2004 Brunello. Complete perfection!!! A little Muscadello di Montalcino with homemade biscotti and I'm done-too done. Waddle back to room, fat, dumb and oh so happy.
See you soon,
Cousin